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發表  Harrison 于 2012-02-07, 21:18

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發表  Nomad 于 2012-02-09, 11:53

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發表  Harrison 于 2012-03-30, 17:04

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發表  Harrison 于 2012-04-01, 10:33


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發表  Harrison 于 2012-09-02, 21:31

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發表  Harrison 于 2013-02-05, 15:39

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發表  Harrison 于 2013-03-15, 09:53

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發表  Harrison 于 2013-03-21, 12:12

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發表  Harrison 于 2013-03-28, 22:58

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發表  Harrison 于 2013-03-28, 23:14

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發表  Harrison 于 2013-03-29, 10:45

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發表  Harrison 于 2013-03-30, 17:01

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發表  Harrison 于 2013-04-03, 09:52

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發表  Harrison 于 2013-04-10, 23:32

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發表  Harrison 于 2013-04-19, 10:03

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Red Wine White Wine Empty 〔酒〕香入饌

發表  Harrison 于 2013-04-20, 13:26

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【明報專訊】酒和中國文學有着密切關係,古人吟詩作對愛以酒作伴,以酒入詩詞,如果沒有酒,豈有李白「會須一飲三百杯」的豪邁,蘇軾「把酒問青天」的情懷?可是,正如李白所言「舉杯消愁愁更愁」,始終淺酌怡情,多喝傷身,不如將美酒入饌,讓美酒的芬芳縈繞於菜肴中,更滋味。

中菜常用酒
酒,《辭海》指出是由米或穀、大麥、高粱等多含澱粉之物質,蒸熟,和以麴發酵而成。因原料和釀造方法多樣,酒的種類亦是五花八門。花雕酒、糯米酒、玫瑰露和米酒,是中菜廚師最常用到的四種酒。

海景嘉福酒店海景軒中菜總廚梁輝雄表示,花雕酒是紹興盛產酒類之一,故又叫「紹興酒」,跟糯米酒一樣,同屬黃酒,主要原料是糯米,但前者加有江浙泉水經古法釀製再窖藏數年而成,有一種沉澱的香氣,後者則有較重糯米甜味。祖籍廣東西樵的梁師傅稱,小時候家家戶戶都會自釀糯米酒,「有人當水飲,也有人用來煮餸」。他創作的鴛鴦糯米飯,上層帶甜味的黑糯米便是加入了糯米酒來煮的。

花雕用途廣
梁輝雄盛讚花雕用途廣泛,如他的家鄉習慣用花雕酒代替糯米酒來製作有補身功效的煮雞酒。花雕亦可用作炒菜、煮紅肉時灒酒,有去菜青、肉臊作用,灒酒若配合拋鑊動作,更能讓酒香包裹着食材。此外,醉雞、醉蟹、蛋白花雕蒸蟹等,都常以花雕製作。
而用玫瑰花蒸餾,以高粱酒為基礎釀製的玫瑰露酒,亦是烹調中菜時常用的酒,如烹調廣東叉燒、玫瑰豉油雞等都會用上,為食物添加獨特的清香花味。
至於米酒又叫燒酒,屬中國白酒,無論是雙蒸、三蒸、赤米等,都以米為原料,經蒸餾而成。梁輝雄表示,煮海鮮白肉時加入少許米酒,貪其酒氣較香,亦有提鮮作用。

此外,加肥豬肉封存醞釀而成的玉冰燒,更是廣東米酒中最具代表性的一例,位於上環的昌源酒莊,正是碩果僅存仍自設廠房釀製玉冰燒的香港品牌。
梁輝雄師傅常用入饌酒

■香港酒莊
上世紀的香港,自家釀酒行業豐盛,陳太吉玉冰燒、杏林莊雙蒸,還有永生和等,經歷時間洗禮,永利威的五加皮和玫瑰露仍屹立不倒,雖然今天香港年輕一代未必懂欣賞,但這裏的出品依然是外國人眼中的好酒,美國、法國和日本等國家,都說要跟永利威第三代傳人、年屆74歲的程貽楷合作。「有個(外國人)叫我諗一隻陳釀酒出來,我都未得閒理他,下星期要回內地搵靚玫瑰做酒了。」楷哥中氣十足的說。

招牌玫瑰露 心血結晶
永利威1876年在廣東始創,1905年遷港,其玫瑰露採用新鮮玫瑰花蕾釀製,每年4月,楷哥都親自到雲南和甘肅等地,找合適的玫瑰花做酒,「要選沒農藥和夠香味的,花蕾不可太大或太細,太細仍然是青色的,釀出來的酒會有朕草青味;太大朵已開的,花味又已經散發,含苞待放的就最好」。他又說蒸餾時火候尤其重要﹕「溫度太高,花味走散,相反,又逼不到花味出來,還要有耐性、靠經驗判斷應該用幾多花,配幾多高粱酒,就算我話你知怎麼做你都不會識做。」聽來有點高傲,但只要打開豬膽酒瓶,那天然的清幽蜜味撲鼻,大家便會明白它多年來仍屹立不倒的原因。「現在很多人用香精溝酒,一打開係好香,但唔持久,點解要咁做?平呀嘛!玫瑰花好貴,十幾萬一噸呀!」

當然還少不了永利威的招牌五加皮酒,先用高粱酒浸當歸、玉竹、川獨活、肉桂、人參、川芎等三十幾種藥材,榨汁後將汁液沉澱一段時間精煉而成,說來容易,每個步驟卻不容有失,楷哥說﹕「在中醫藥材裏,分君臣佐使,哪種是主,哪種是藥引,要分得清楚,每種藥材浸的次序都分得好清楚。」他建議,女士們若手腳冰冷,可每天飲用一小杯(約5毫升),有驅風活血之效。

■中國美酒
中國釀製的酒多不勝數,香港葡萄酒評審協會主席梁衛民除紅酒外,也有研究中國酒。他表示,認識中國酒不容易,可按種類、香型、酒精度等來劃分。中國酒有五大類,包括﹕白酒、黃酒、水果酒、啤酒和配製酒(如藥材酒)等。單是白酒,可再按香型來細分,主要有醬香(如﹕茅台)、濃香(如﹕瀘州老窖、五糧液)、清香(如﹕山西汾酒、二鍋頭)、米香(如﹕桂林三花酒)等,還有其他香型的酒,如帶肉香的玉冰燒。他指出,「濃香似Tequila、威士忌,變化層次較多;清香則似Vodka,我比較喜歡二鍋頭,似House Wine,配搭各種菜肴都適合。初嘗中國酒時可一試,味道較易接受。」

人們總認為中國酒濃度太高,傷身傷胃,梁衛民表示,中國白酒酒精度分高(60度)、中(53度)、低(30至40度),較紅酒普遍只有9至16度為高,當然不宜豪飲,「一餐酒如果飲一両,即約50毫升,已經有十啖,慢慢飲,計落跟飲紅酒唔會有太大差別」。

■學者談「酒」

酒醃蟹膏 軟綿滑糯
資料提供﹕吳瑞卿博士
簡介﹕香港中文大學博士,先後主修歷史及中國文學,曾於中大崇基學院擔任學生輔導與通識教育工作。1988年移居美國後從事翻譯及廣告創作。
吳瑞卿喜歡吃蟹,以酒醃製的醉蟹尤好之。她在著作《食樂有文化》分享道﹕「醉蟹是江南人的獨步製法,用黃酒醃肥美的湖蟹,用瓦罐存放,待以時日,蟹給酒慢慢醃得軟糯,那就可以吃了,是不經煮過的……醉蟹是非常獨特的,除了酒香,和蒸、炒、焗蟹最主要的分別在於顏色與質感。由於沒有煮熟,不『過火』,蟹殼還是綠色的,膏和肉是軟糯的,滲着稠濃香甜的酒汁。」
她又提到,如以膏蟹代替湖蟹來做醉蟹更勝一籌,「沒想到用酒醃的蟹膏,軟、綿、滑、糯,蟹香加上酒香,我想不到有任何美食與之相似。」
伸延閱讀﹕《食樂有文化》
作者﹕吳瑞卿
出版﹕商務印書館
■info
永利威酒莊
地址﹕上環永樂街124號1樓
電話﹕2544 1174
海景軒
地址﹕尖沙嘴麼地道70號 海景嘉福酒店B2層
電話﹕2731 2883
昌源酒莊
地址﹕上環水坑口街22號地下
電話﹕2543 9151
君綽軒
地址﹕北角油街23號 港島海逸君綽酒店5樓
電話﹕2121 2691
文﹕梁翠薇
圖﹕林俊源、有關餐廳提供
編輯 胡可欣
美術 SIUKI

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發表  Harrison 于 2013-04-20, 13:28

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發表  Harrison 于 2013-04-23, 15:13

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發表  Harrison 于 2013-04-27, 10:46

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發表  Harrison 于 2013-05-01, 21:57

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Red Wine White Wine Empty 2013 May 4

發表  Harrison 于 2013-05-04, 22:04

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Harrison
Harrison

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